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HomeFrank Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books |
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4 of 4 found the following review helpful:
Thankyou Mountaineers Books Jan 06, 2007
....for republishing these as one collection. I've been picking old copies printed in the 1930's up one at a time here and there over the years, but never managed to get them all. Now I'm satisfied! This puts together six of the best works by Francis Sydney Smythe. Frank Smythe was a well-known mountaineer of the 20's and 30's who did a number of first ascents in the Himalaya ("Kamet Conquored" is a great read) as well as being on the odd Everest expedition ("Camp 6"). He was at the centre of high altitude mountaineering development in it's early years and was also a pioneer of rapid and lightweight ascents in the Himalaya.
All the books are well-written and an enthralling read. There's quite a number of b&w photo's interspersed with the text. The style is still very accessible, unlike some books from the same period, and personally, I highly recommend this collection. Check out other reprinted collections from Mountaineers Books too - H W Tilman and Eric Shipton are likewise excellent writers from the same period.
Books contained within this volume are:
Climbs and Ski Runs
The Kanchenjunga Adventure
Kamet Conquored
Camp Six
The Valley of Flowers
Mountainering Holiday
For those who are interested in the book but haven't read it, here's a synopsis of the contents(taken from the book, I take no credit for this...) but of you're interested, could hekp you decide.
Climbs and Ski Runs: Smythe's early climbs and ski mountaineering, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu probes, winter in the Oberland, Corsica ascents, climbs on the Chamonix Aiguilles and in the Dolomites, a stormy traverse of the Aig. Blanche and finally the Red Sentinel and Route Major on the Brenaw.
The Kanchenjunga Adventure: An international attempt on the worlds third higest peak with an approach through Nepal (one of the earliest expeditions to enter Nepal). The ice avalanche and Chettan;s death was, for Smythe, a shocking event. The ascent of Jonsong Peak (24,344 ft) and other ascents inpsired by Erwin Schneider, offered a more appealing alternative to risky assaults on the greatest peaks.
Kamet Conquored: A title accepted reluctantly by the author, who rejected the idea of "onquest" on mountaineering. An account of the rapid but exacting ascent of the highest peak to be climbed by 1031 and the Arwa Valley exploration.
Camp Six: One of the best Everest Accounts. After a tenacious build up during difficult weather, a very high final camp was placed and two summit bids launched. Smythe describes his precarious solo push, where a good chance of sucess was lost when Shipton was unable to continue.
The Valley of Flowers: An outstanding Himalyan climbing and exploratory season, coupled with collecting high-altitude alpine plants. The original climbing pictures appeared in a later mountain photography book. With text and action photos now combined the status of this fine trip becomes clear with the first ascents of Mama Peak, Deoban and Nilgiri Parbat and attempts on Rataban, Dunagiri and Nilkanta.
Mountainering Holiday: An account of the planning, patienve, humility and opportunism required to complete a successful alpine season. The books ends with a taut description of climbing Mt Blanc's Innominata Ridge with four German climbers in the last days before WW2.
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