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Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster

 
 
Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster
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Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster

A bank of clouds was assembling on the not-so-distant horizon, but journalist-mountaineer Jon Krakauer, standing on the summit of Mt. Everest, saw nothing that "suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down." He was wrong. The storm, which claimed five lives and left countless more--including Krakauer's--in guilt-ridden disarray, would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air, Krakauer's epic account of the May 1996 disaster

By writing Into Thin Air, Krakauer may have hoped to exorcise some of his own demons and lay to rest some of the painful questions that still surround the event. He takes great pains to provide a balanced picture of the people and events he witnessed and gives due credit to the tireless and dedicated Sherpas. He also avoids blasting easy targets such as Sandy Pittman, the wealthy socialite who brought an espresso maker along on the expedition. Krakauer's highly personal inquiry into the catastrophe provides a great deal of insight into what went wrong. But for Krakauer himself, further interviews and investigations only lead him to the conclusion that his perceived failures were directly responsible for a fellow climber's death. Clearly, Krakauer remains haunted by the disaster, and although he relates a number of incidents in which he acted selflessly and even heroically, he seems unable to view those instances objectively. In the end, despite his evenhanded and even generous! assessment of others' actions, he reserves a full measure of vitriol for himself. This updated trade paperback edition of Into Thin Air includes an extensive new postscript that sheds fascinating light on the acrimonious debate that flared between Krakauer and Everest guide Anatoli Boukreev in the wake of the tragedy. "I have no doubt that Boukreev's intentions were good on summit day," writes Krakauer in the postscript, dated August 1999. "What disturbs me, though, was Boukreev's refusal to acknowledge the possibility that he made even a single poor decision. Never did he indicate that perhaps it wasn't the best choice to climb without gas or go down ahead of his clients." As usual, Krakauer supports his points with dogged research and a good dose of humility. But rather than continue the heated discourse that has raged since Into Thin Air's denouncement of guide Boukreev, Krakauer's tone is conciliatory; he points most of his criticism at G. Weston De Walt, who coauthored, The Climb, Boukreev's version of events. And in a touching conclusion, Krakauer re! counts his last conversation with the late Boukreev, in which the two weathered climbers agreed to disagree about certain points. Krakauer had great hopes to patch things up with Boukreev, but the Russian later died in an avalanche on another Himalayan peak, Annapurna I. In 1999, Krakauer received an Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters-a prestigious prize intended "to honor writers of exceptional accomplishment." According to the Academy's citation, "Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer. His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport; while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind."

  • ISBN13: 9780385494786

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  • Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.

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Product Details:
Author: Jon Krakauer
Paperback: 332 pages
Publisher: Anchor
Publication Date: October 19, 1999
Language: English
ISBN: 0385494785
Package Length: 7.9 inches
Package Width: 5.1 inches
Package Height: 1.0 inches
Package Weight: 0.65 pounds
Average Customer Rating: based on 1565 reviews
 
 

Customer Reviews:
Average Customer Review:4.5
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2I think the author is too self-serving and biased  Mar 11, 2010
I was looking forward to reading Into Thin Air, I love mountaineering and Mt. Everest, and the life & death struggles that come with it, and nothing like sad tragedy to make me feel...alive and thankful.
I read this book in 2 days, but went from enthralled with the mountain drama to disappointed with Mr. Krakauer's growingly evident biases.

I wish he could have been more objective, and less self-serving.
Once I sensed his own selfishness coming through the accounts of this journey, the book and his writing turned me off, completely.

5Spellbinding account of the Mt. Everest tragedy  Mar 03, 2010
Krakauer's account of this tragic episode is very personal and compelling. I found the book hard to put down and was gripped by the human element that slowly and inescapably evolved into disaster. It's a book that you will think of long afterward and wonder about the "what-ifs." It's on my top ten list - I give it 5 stars.

1 of 1 found the following review helpful:

5Once you start, you can't stop.  Feb 28, 2010
Firstly I'd like to put forth my mountaineering credentials: They are absolutely non existent. Beyond knowing that mountain climbing involves ... well climbing mountains and vague ideas of ice axes, crampons and the like I've never climbed something higher than incidental slopes while bushwalking. But let me just say that while this book is largely uncluttered by technical jargon and stops well short of expanding upon the minutia of what happened on Mt Everest in 1996 this book is one heck of a read. Literally I devoured the thing. And then turned around and practically re-read it twice within the span of one week.

Now the prose isn't going to win a Pulitzer. That isn't a criticism by the way, just a statement of fact. But what Mr Krakauer has managed to achieve here is to impart the feel of things, that indefinable X factor, and managed to convey it to the mountaineering layman such as myself. The author explains enough of the technical aspects to let the newcomer understand some of the pitfalls of such high altitude escapades and his personal knowledge and involvement in the events at hand allows him to impart real tension and first person drama to proceedings. Of course, I suppose some will find this very aspect somewhat damaging to the project - after all after such an event a person is going to have some issues trying to lay forth with the clearest account, but it's my gut instinct that unless you are after a dry-as-a-desert report style tome then this is pretty much your book for getting a handle on the low down of what went down during a harrowing few days at the top of the world.

Topped off with some colour plates (at least in my edition) this book captured my imagination mainly due to the subject matter at hand but also the authors brisk style and his on-hand observations of the issues that affected both the ascent and the descent and the fact that the author is himself a climber means he doesn't fall into the trap of armchair moralising about in some sort of detached way. While he offers theories and suppositions he usually points out areas where he is using conjecture and all up... oh I'm sick of typing - just buy the book and enjoy a great yarn that never lets you forget that these were real people fighting for their lives.


P.S - this is a product where you can sort of tell its quality by the level of criticism levelled at it. Go and read some of the one star reviews and they'll almost certainly make you want to buy this such are their pithy nature.

1 of 1 found the following review helpful:

4Gripping to the end  Feb 19, 2010
The pervasive biting cold that comes with extreme mountaineering cannot be escaped as the reader -- even knowing the tragic outcome -- greedily turns page after page to find out what happens next.

Jon Krakauer's account of lives lost on the flanks of Mount Everest (which stands 29,028 feet high -- a number permanently etched into the reader's cortex) is no enticing travel brochure. Nearly every chapter is filled with some description of blood, vomit, pain, blindness, cold, frostbite. And there are new ailments specific to high-altitude life for the reader to absorb, ailments that deprive the brain of oxygen so severely that lucid thoughts and solid decisions become the exception rather than the norm.

The description of Krakauer's time spent on the summit are particularly affecting. He does not write of glory or grandeur. He briefly mentions the peak (prayer flags, the Tibetan landscape below) and his actions (four snapshots of fellow climbers). And that's about it. This is not a book about being at the top of the world. This is a book about getting there. And even more importantly, about getting back.

4Eye-opening  Feb 18, 2010
If Krakauer's intention was to kill all of our romantic ideas about mountain climbing with this book, he undoubtedly succeeded. Whatever idealistic notions of bravery, athleticism, adventure, and brotherhood I had about this "sport", are now gone forever.

What Krakauer delivers instead is a very tough picture of people who are ready to risk their lives and lives of those around them (guides, Sherpas, rescue workers) for the purpose of satisfying some masochistic macho aspirations of theirs or, even worse, to get some cheap fame. I now know that there is no sportsmanship or athleticism or fitness about these trips to the top of Everest. People kill their brain cells, they freeze off their body parts, they lose eye sight, they die, all for the privilege of standing on the top of the world for a few seconds. I never understood this achievement before, I understand it even less now, knowing the costs of it. Even more, what kind of an achievement it is, if everything is done for you - Sherpas build your camps, make your food, carry your baggage (including laptops, TVs, gourmet foods, and magazines), fix ropes for you to hang on, even haul you to the top if needed?

But enough of ranting, time to talk about the book itself. I think Krakauer is a great non-fiction writer who manages to suck you into any story. Same goes for "Into Thin Air." It is a compelling book, more interesting in the latter part than in the beginning (once you pass 150-page mark, the book is virtually unputdownable). I personally would have preferred him to talk more about the trip and its difficulties rather than recounting everyone's back stories, but in the end, I have to admit, it adds certain relatability to the narrative. I also was afraid that he would spend a lot of time assigning blame to various players (including himself), but was pleased to see that he had learned from his "Outsider" article and came to the right conclusion that the Everest disaster was nobody's fault.

Overall, a very interesting and in many ways eye-opening story, which in spite of being beyond my scope of interest, managed to hold my attention.